Wednesday, April 19, 2017

The Promise of Timor-Leste

Timor-Leste is a stunningly beautiful place. Sandy beaches, gorgeous coral reefs, lush, green mountains. 

It's also a country with a deep history of violence and subjugation. 500 years of Portuguese colonialism, decades of Indonesian occupation, and civil unrest following independence in 1999 have left a deep and jagged impact on the land and its people. And yet, it seems, change is happening - and for the better. 
Here in the farthest corner of the world (from us), a quiet but powerful shifting of the tides is underway. Timor Leste has a thriving and strengthening democracy. The youth of Timor-Leste are passionate about the environment. Timorese coffee beans - purchased by the likes of Starbucks in droves - are giving the country a foothold in agricultural exports. Timorese seem to welcome development and partnership with international governments. And a strong tourism industry - remember those sandy beaches? - seems inevitable. 
So what accounts for all these remarkable changes? It depends on who you ask. According to the US Ambassador and her staff, it's forgiveness. "Timorese people have an incredible capacity for forgiveness," said one official during our visit to the U.S. Embassy on Tuesday. "They want to move on, to work together." 
And what about development? According to USAID, they've played a hand, too. "We're very proud of our work on coffee here," they said. USAID has a a wide scope of projects in the country, Other country governments have programs as well, including Australia and Portugal. People around the world are invested in this place.
Scores of international entities monitored the last election, helping to ensure a safe and peaceful process. Remarkably 70% of the population turned out, often waiting in lines for hours upon hours, and walking far distances just to be able to exercise this newly gained right. If only our own system enjoyed this type of dedication.  
But as my teammate Jon noted, it is the Timorese people who truly deserve the credit. After dozens of bloody and heartbreaking years of the fight for independence (the history of which we delved into at Dili's Resistance Museum), they're determined to make the best of their freedom. 
There's no doubt that Timor-Leste has a long way to go. It's one of the poorest countries in the world. Health statistics are some of the lowest anywhere, with high rates of malnutrition and maternal mortality. 
And yet. There is a promise in Timor-Leste. A promise of a bright future, of a people who are picking themselves up from their bootstraps. I hope someday to return and see even more smiling faces, strengthening infrastructure, healthy kids, people striving for more. And visitors wanting a slice of those sandy beaches. I know I do. 

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